Long tall sally crocheted scarf pattern

ABBREVIATIONS (using UK terms)

st - stitch

ch - chain

tr - treble

htr - half treble

PSM - place stitch marker in previous ch (or st) just worked

dc - double crochet

sts - stitches

MATERIALS

2.5mm and 3.00mm crochet hook
I used Rico's Creative Melange one 50g ball was enough for my scarf (65 inches long by two and a half inches wide), if you make yours longer or shorter, you may need to adjust yarn quantities.
Darning needle
Two stitch markers

GAUGE

32 st x 20 rows worked in pattern equates to 4 inches though please note, the width of the finished scarf is only two and a half inches. It's a tall and skinny scarf (hence the name!)

HOW TO WORK THE SPECIAL STITCHES IN THIS PATTERN

dangle ending:

3 tr in 4th chain from hook, 4 tr in next ch, 4 htr in next ch, 1 htr in next ch

dtr3tog:

yo twice, insert hook in previously worked st, yo, pull through st (4 loops on hook), (yo, pull through 2 loops) twice (2 loops on hook), yo twice, skip 1 st, insert hook in next st, yo, pull through st (5 sts on hook), (yo, pull through 2 loops) twice (3 loops on hook), yo twice, skip 1 st, insert hook in next st, yo, pull through st (6 loops on hook), (yo, pull through 2 loops) twice, yo, pull through 4 loops on hook, ch 3

dtrxst:

yo twice, skip 1 st, insert hook in next st, yo, pull through st (4 loops on hook), yo, pull through two loops, yo, skip 1 st, insert hook in next st, yo pull through st (5 loops on hook), (yo, pull through 2 loops) 4 times (1 loop on hook), the stitch looks like an upside down lowercase “y”, ch 1, tr in intersection of the “y” to complete an “X” shape

FOUNDATION ROW

If, like me, your chains tend to be on the tight side, use a 2.5mm hook to ch multiples of 4 (I did 464), change to 2mm hook, ch a further 22, make a dangle ending (see above special stitches), dc in each of next 15ch, PSM, dc in every ch to end, 15 ch, turn

Row 1:

make a dangle ending, dc in each of next 8ch, htr in next st, tr in next st, dtr in next st, ch 1, dtr3tog, *ch 3, dtr3tog, repeat from * until 2 sts before you reach the stitch marker

ch 1, dtr in previous st (indicated above), tr in next st, htr in next st, ch 18, turn

Row 2:

make a dangle ending, dc in each of next 11ch, dc in each of next 3 sts, dc in 1ch sp,

dc in centre of dtr3tog, PSM, * 3 dc in 3ch sp, dc in centre of dtr3tog, repeat from all along length, ending with dc into the centre of the final dtr3tog, ch 20, turn

NB do not worry if your work curls a bit like this like mine, it will even out later

Row 3:

make a dangle ending, dc in each of next 13 ch, dc in every st up to and including stitch marker, remove stitch marker, ch 29, turn

Row 4:

make a dangle ending, dc in each of next 19 ch, htr in next ch, tr in next ch, dtr in next ch, ch 1, PSM, *dtrxst, ch 1, repeat from * all along length, ending with ch 1

NB Each dtrxst should span a 3ch space inbetween the dtr3togs worked on row 1

The final repeat should span the final 3ch space of row 1 (as above), skip 1 st, dtr in next st, tr in next st, htr in next st, ch 26, turn

Row 5:

make a dangle ending, dc in each of next 19 ch, dc in each of next 3sts, dc in 1ch space, PSM, * dc in next st, dc in 1 ch sp, repeat from * all along length up to and including marker, remove marker, ch 23

Row 6:

make a dangle ending, dc in each of next 16 ch, dc in every stitch all along length until stitch just before marker, remove marker, ss into next stitch, fasten off. First half of Long Tall Sally scarf complete.

FOUNDATION FOR SECOND HALF

Turn scarf upside-down. With the end with three dangles to your right, identify the third ch from the foundation row (see below). Reattach yarn there and then ch 22, turn

Row 7:

make a dangle ending, dc in each of next 15 ch, dc in same ch as yarn reattached, dc in each of next 4 st, PSM, dc in every ch all along length until stitch indicated below

ch 18, turn

Row 8:

make a dangle ending,  dc in each of next 8 ch, htr in next ch, tr in next ch, dtr in next ch, dtr3tog, *3 ch, dtr3tog, repeat from * working the final leg of the dtr3tog where stitch marker is, remove stitch marker, ch 1, dtr in same st, tr in next st, htr in next st, ch 13, turn

Row 9:

make a dangle ending, dc in each of next 6 ch, dc in each of next 3 sts, PSM, dc in 1 ch sp, dc in centre of dtr3tog, *3 dc in 3 ch sp, dc in centre of dtr3tog, repeat from * ending with final dtr3tog, dc in each of next 2 sts, ch 20, turn

Row 10:

make a dangle ending, dc in each of next 13 ch, dc in next 3 sts, PSM, dc in every st all along the length up to and including stitch where stitch marker is, remove stitch marker, ch 21, turn

Row 11:

make a dangle ending, dc in each of next 11ch, PSM, dc in each of next 2 ch, 1 htr in next ch, 1 tr in next ch, 1 dtr in next st, *ch 1, dtr in next st, repeat from * all along length, ending in dtr in st where stitch marker is, remove stitch marker, tr in next st, htr in next st, ch 24, turn

Row 12:

make a dangle ending, dc in each of next 17ch, dc in next st, PSM, dc in each of next 3 st, *dc in 1 ch sp, dc in next st, repeat from * all along until you have no more ch sps, dc in each remaining st up to and including where stitch marker is, remove stitch marker, ch 17, turn

Row 13:

make a dangle ending, dc in each of next 10ch, dc in every stitch all along length up to and including stitch marker, remove stitch marker, ss in next st, fasten off.

FINISHING

Blocking does not make much difference to this scarf's finished appearance but do feel free to block if you have any curling issues as it will straighten this out.

Close up of the dangle endings.

Crochet lacy dress scarf - written pattern

I published the chart for my lacy dress scarf at the back end of last year. It has had a lot of hits on it recently, I imagine people are looking for lightweight scarf patterns for summer. A few have asked for written instructions and I'm delighted to now be able to oblige. I’ve included some photos as well. I know when I’m following a pattern for the first time, pictures can be very reassuring.

All instructions are written in UK crochet terms

Materials
This version uses 2.5mm crochet hook and 2 x 50g balls of Rico Creative Melange laceweight yarn although much will depend on how long and wide you make your scarf, adjust yarn amount accordingly

Abbreviations

ch - chain

dtr - double treble 

sp - space

dc - double crochet

Foundation row:

Make a slip knot on your hook, ch multiples of 7 plus a further 8. For this version, I chained 43, ie 5 x 7 = 35 + 8 = 43. (2 dtr, ch 1, 2 dtr) in 10th ch from hook * ch 1, skip 6 ch (2 dtr, ch 1, 2 dtr) in next ch, repeat from * until 5 ch remain, ch1, skip 4 ch, dtr in final ch, turn

Row 1:

ch 7, dc in first 1 ch sp, (see photo below for the place)

ch 3 * skip 2 dtr (2 dtr, ch 1, 2 dtr) in 1 ch sp, 3 ch, skip 2 dtr, dc in 1 ch sp, 3 ch, repeat from * until you reach 9 ch at the end (see picture below for how work will look at this stage)

(dc, 3 ch, dtr) in 9 ch sp, turn

Row 2:

ch 5, * (2dtr, ch 1, 2 dtr) in 1 ch sp marked “1”,

ch 1, repeat from * working only into the 1 ch sp inbetween dtrs indicated by numbers on the photo until you reach 7 ch at the end, dtr into 7 ch sp, turn 

Row 3:

Same as row 1, except the ch sp you work into at the end is a 5 ch sp

and this will be true for all subsequent repeats

Repeat rows 2 and 3 for the length desired ending on a row 2, do not fasten off. 

Bottom finishing row:

ch 4, skip (1 ch, 2 dtr)

*(2 dtr, 1 ch, 2 dtr) in 1 ch sp indicated above, ch 3, skip 2 dtr,

dc in next 1 ch sp indicated above, ch 3, skip 2 dtr, repeat from * moving along the row, ending on (2 dtr, 1 ch, 2 dtr) in 1 ch sp

ch 4, dc in 5 ch sp indicated, fasten off

Top finishing row:

Turn work upside down with yarn tail to your left. Rejoin yarn in 7 ch sp at right hand corner indicated above, leaving a tail long enough to weave in later, ch 4, *skip rest of chs in the ch sp

(2 dtr, 1 ch, 2 dtr) in ch sp indicated above, ch 3, dc in 6 ch sp, ch 3, repeat from * ending with (2dtr, 1 ch, 2dtr)

ch 4, dc in corner st indicated, fasten off. Weave in ends.

Add a fringe of your choice or you can make the one I did. I originally found the instructions for this bobble fridge via Pinterest on Once Upon a Pink Moon's blog. I thoroughly recommend you go look and see all the things Robin gets up to on her blog, she is a very creative and talented lady. On that website it's written in US terms so I've converted it to UK terms for you here and I have modified it ever so slightly. I'm including a few photographs here to show you exactly how to add it to this scarf.

Step 1 - Rejoin yarn by making a slip knot loop and pulling through the first 1ch sp (indicated above), ch 1, dc in same sp

Step 2 - ch 9, yo, insert hook in 3rd ch, yo, pull yarn through, yo, pull yarn through 2 loops (2 loops on hook) *yo, insert hook into same ch, yo, pull yarn through, yo, pull yarn through 2 loops (3 loops on hook), repeat from * once (4 loops on hook) **

Step 3 - yo, pull yarn through 4 loops, ch 3 (see below for how your work will look)

Step 4 - yo, insert hook into 3rd ch from hook (indicated above), yo, pull yarn through, yo, pull yarn through 2 loops (2 loops on hook), repeat from * to ** twice 

Step 5 - yo, pull through 4 loops. Insert hook into the V of the ch at the bottom of the first bobble indicated below. This has the effect of “folding” the two bobbles on top of each other.

NB It's quite fiddly to do, you will need to wiggle the tip of the hook into each side separately, it is quite tight because of the number of stitches worked into it already.

Step 6 - yo, pull yarn through (2 loops on hook), yo, pull through both loops, ch 6, skip (2 dtr, 3 ch, dc, 3 ch, 2 dtr), dc in 1 ch sp indicated below

Repeat steps 2 to 6 all the way along, ending in final 1 ch sp with dc, fasten off. Repeat the fringe on the other end and then weave in all ends.

The scarf will benefit from blocking, it brings out the lacy stitches beautifully. Drop the scarf in a bowl of tepid water and then very gently squeeze the excess water out (do not wring!) Roll it up in a dry towel to blot out some more. Lay the scarf on fresh dry towels (I needed two laid end to end) over carpet or a blocking board and then pin it out gently, stretching it a little as you go using rustless stainless steel pins. Pay particular attention to the "points" created on the finishing rows by placing a pin in the 1 ch sp, being careful to keep them in a straight line.

Leave to dry overnight and then you can wear it! 

Chunky ribbed crochet scarf pattern

This chunky ribbed scarf pattern has been designed specifically to go with my chunky crochet fingerless mittens pattern. The scarf is made using front and back post trebles using UK crochet terminology and therefore mirrors the mitten's top and bottom ribbing. It's a two row pattern repeat with the ribbing going the entire length of the scarf. 

The front and back post stitches are worked as usual, there are links to how-to videos on the chunky crochet fingerless mittens pattern

You can adapt the pattern to make it wider or thinner by adjusting the stitch count. Using the number of stitches in the pattern, the scarf will be approximately 6 inches wide.

The pattern uses UK crochet terminology throughout.

MATERIALS
Chunky yarn, I used 7 x 50g balls of Rico Creative Melange
5.5mm hook
2 stitch markers

GAUGE
17 sts x 10 rows = 4 inches (measured over pattern)

ABBREVIATIONS

ch - chain

st - stitch

tr - treble

htr - half treble

FPtr - front post treble

BPtr - back post treble

Foundation row: 
Chain multiples of 2 plus 3. I have chained 26+3=29, turn, skip 3 ch (counts as 1 tr), work tr (uk terms) into 4th ch from hook. 

Place a stitch marker into ch at the top of the skipped chs, work 1 tr into every remaining ch (27 trs) turn

Row 1: 

ch 2 (counts as 1 htr), 1 FPtr, place stitch marker into top of 2 ch at beginning, 

* 1 BPtr, 1 FPtr, repeat from * (ending with a FPtr) up to (but not including) st with stitch marker, remove stitch marker and then work 1 htr into where the stitch marker was (13 FPtrs, 12 BPtrs and 2 htrs = 27 sts in all) turn

Row 2: 
ch 2 (counts as 1 htr), 1BPtr, place stitch marker into top of 2 ch at beginning, * 1 FPtr, 1 BPtr, repeat from * (ending on a BPtr) up to (but not including) st with stitch marker, remove stitch marker and then work 1 htr into where the stitch marker was (12 FPtrs, 13 BPs, 2 htrs = 27 sts in all ) turn

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until scarf is the length is required. If you want to make a fringe, be sure to save some yarn for that. The twisted fringe I am going to show you now particularly suits the ribbed scarf. It will use a little less than 20g so save about half a ball for it. 

Finishing row: 3 ch (to count as 1 tr), work 1 tr into each stitch (27trs), do not break off yarn if you want to make the twisted fringe. 

TWISTED FRINGE

Step One: Pull a loop up to measure 8 inches 

Step Two: Rotate the crochet hook in a clockwise direction, twisting the loop 21 times, ss into the same st as the loop was pulled up from. NB Be sure not to pull the ss through too much or the loop will shorten. 

Step Three: After the ss is worked, the loop may twist up into something that looks like the above photograph. Just pull it with your finger and thumb to smooth it out into a single twist.

Step Four: ss into the next st, this st can be worked a little tighter. 

Repeat steps one to four until the last fringe loop has been worked, finishing with a ss into the last st, fasten off and weave in the end.

Repeat the fringe on the other end of the scarf by making a slip knot on your hook and pulling through one of the end stitches and then repeat steps one to four. 

My fringe ended up being a little over 3 inches long using the method above but you could experiment with longer or shorter loops and a different number of twists to produce a longer or shorter fringe.

My scarf finished up being six foot, four inches long (excluding fringe) but you can make yours as long or as short as you like by adjusting yarn amounts and the number of rows worked. 

Voila!

Hot water bottle cover pattern featuring flip top

I am pleased to announce my first paid for crochet pattern is now available on instant download from my Sooz Jewels Etsy shop for approximately £2.50 (depending on exchange rates).

One of the more unusual features of the design is the flip top flap opening which I designed for ease of use for my elderly parents.

Beginners with a little experience of basic stitches should be able to use this pattern. If you can chain and do double, treble, half treble and slip stitches, you should have no problems. You make 12 granny squares (pattern included) and then join them together.

The pattern is 19 pages long and contains 55 photographs so it's very detailed. There is a full step by step picture tutorial walking you through the joining technique, the flap opening and the tube section on the top. Everything is explained comprehensively. If you've never joined squares together before, this pattern is a good way of expanding your experience.

It's written in UK terminology throughout.

Warmer toes in bed are guaranteed!

Finishing off WIPs and starting a temperature blanket

Inbetween Christmas and New Year, in that quiet little lull when the weather was rubbish except for one day, I managed to get quite a bit of crochet done. I spent the time concentrating on finishing off items that have been neglected, otherwise known as my WIPs.

The above picture is my finished Frank O'Randle's Rings of Change tablecloth being blocked. I told you a few weeks ago when it was still a Work In Progress how I modified earlier rounds to make it into a tablecloth. It was big enough when it got to row 78 so I finished it there and added two rows of my own custom border. It's been drying on towels under my dining room table for the last 3 days, I'm giving it another day just to be sure.

Two cushions for my antique Edwardian chaise longue. One in granny squares and the other a very simple bobble stitch which is just dcs and dtrs, I should do a closeup so you can see the texture of it but I'll probably write it up as a free pattern so I'll save the close up for then, 

I spotted the stitch on a Dutch Pinterest board, I had to work out what the UK equivalents were of words like afstand, herhalen and doorgaan. Google Translate only gets you so far when it comes to technical crochet stitches. It was actually quite a lot of fun; I'm thinking if I ever need to get a proper job again, I may retrain as a linguist!

I also completed a throw for one of my armchairs, It needs blocking before it can be photographed. With Rings of Change taking up all the available blocking space at the moment, I'll save that for another day. 

Haven't I been good?! Three finished WIPs means I'm allowed to start a new project. There has been talk in some of the crochet groups I follow on Facebook about temperature blankets. The traditional time to start one is 1 January. 

The original link I followed was made in Bernat yarns but I've never used it and I don't have any. I have so much yarn in my stash, I wondered if I had enough equivalent yarn in other brands to get going. I have plenty of Stylecraft Special DK; I found I was only one colour short which I bought this morning from the Wool Zone in Oakham. Here are my colours, from left to right:

Plum, Petrol, Turquoise, Aspen, Grass Green, Kelly Green, Gold Sunshine and Tomato. 

The pattern I'm using is Lucy of Attic24's Granny Stripes.

The idea is that you crochet one row a day, the colour of the row varies depending on the temperature so at the end of the year, you have a woolly record of how warm (or cold!) it's been!

So far, all six days (at around midday) have been either Turquoise(1 to 6 degrees C) or Aspen (7 to 12)... it will be exciting to change to another colour, apparently it'll be getting quite a bit colder next week so I may have to get the Petrol (-5 to zero) out! I'm wondering if it'll ever be cold enough this winter to use Plum (below -6)!

Stay warm x

Chunky crochet fingerless mittens - free top down pattern

Here is the free pattern, tutorial and instructions for my chunky crochet fingerless mittens. I have made mine in Katia Azteca in a gorgeous red (shade no 7809). Azteca is classed as an aran weight yarn but you can use any chunkyish yarn as long as the gauge works out as 14 stitches and 8 rows in treble equals four inches.

A good suggested substitute yarn is Rico Creative Melange Chunky which crochets up to the same gauge.

The pattern really is quite easy to do. Most of the stitches are just UK trebles. The ribbing effect also uses trebles but instead of ordinary trebles, we use front post trebles (fprt) alternated with back post trebles (bptr). The thumb and shaping might look daunting for beginners but I walk you through that bit using detailed instructions and photographs so you know what it should look like.

I think this is a perfect pattern for a beginner looking to expand their stitch repertoire. If you can do chains, slip stitches and trebles, all you have to do before trying this pattern is to look up how to do the front and back post trebles and familiarise yourself with 2trtog for shaping. An explanation of how to do 2trtog is included in the pattern abbreviations below.

Here is a link to a video guide of how to do front post treble (FPtr)
NB, the video is made using American terms which is why they could it a front post double but don't worry about that, just follow the video and do it exactly as its shown.

Here is a link to a video guide of how to do back post treble (BPtr)

We're making these mittens top down, so we start at the fingers end and finish at the wrist

All instructions use UK crochet terminology

MATERIALS

60 grams Katia Azteca (108 metres/119 yards)
5.5mm hook

GAUGE

14 stitches and 8 rows in trebles = 4 inches

ABBREVIATIONS (UK terminology)

ch chain

ss slip stitch
st stitch

tr treble

FPtr front post treble

BPtr back post treble

2trtog 

yoh yarn over hook

Here is an explanation for 2trtog:
The stitch is worked as follows over two sts and joins two trs at the top to reduce the stitch count by one
yoh, insert hook into first st, yoh, pull yarn through first st (3 loops on hook), yoh, pull yarn through first two loops (2 loops on hook) yoh, insert hook into second st, yoh, pull yarn through st (4 loops on hook), yoh, pull yarn through 2 loops (3 loops on hook), yoh, pull loop through remaining 3 loops (1 loop on hook)

INSTRUCTIONS

Foundation row: ch 26, ss into first ch to form a circle

Row 1: ch 3 (to count as first tr), tr in each ch all round, ss into top ch of beginning 3 ch (26 trs)

Row 2: ch 2 (counts as first tr), FPtr in next st, *BPtr in next st, FPtr in next st, repeat from * to end, ss into top ch of beginning 2 ch (26 sts)

Row 3: Repeat row 2

Row 4: ch 3 (counts as 1 tr), 1 tr in each st all round, 1 tr into st at the base of 3 ch, ss into top ch of beginning 3 ch (27 trs)

Row 5: ch 8,

 skip next 2 sts, ss into next st to form a semi-circle,

ch 3 (counts as first tr),

tr in each of next 23 stitches, 1 tr into base of st where semi-circle starts (25 trs),

1 tr in each ch of 8 ch, (photo below indicates where first tr should go)

(the photo below shows what it looks like half way through the 8 trs)

(the photo below shows what it looks like when you've completed all 8 trs and where to put the next ss)

ss into top of beginning 3 ch (33 trs)

Row 6: ch 3 (counts as 1 tr), 1 tr in next 27 trs, 2trtog, 1 tr in each of next 3 sts, ss in top ch of beginning 3 ch (32 sts)

Row 7: ch 3 (counts as 1 tr) , 1 tr in next 27 sts, 2trtog, 1 tr in each of next 2 sts, ss in top ch of beginning 3 ch (31 sts)

Row 8: ch 3 (counts as 1 tr), 1 tr in next 27 sts, 2trtog, 1 tr in next st, ss in top ch of beginning 3 ch (30 sts)

Row 9: ch 3 (counts as 1 tr), 1 tr in next 27 sts, 2trtog, ss in top ch of beginning 3 ch (29 sts)

Row 10: ch 3, 1 tr in each of next 26 sts, 2trtog, ss in top ch of beginning 3 ch (28 sts)

Row 11: ch 3, 1 tr in each of next 25 sts, 2trtog, ss in top ch of beginning 3 ch (27 sts)

Row 12: 2 ch, yoh, insert hook in next st, yoh, pull loop through st (3 loops on hook), yoh, pull yarn through 2 loops (2 loops on hook), yoh, pull yarn through 2 loops (counts as 2trtog), 1 tr in each of next 12 sts, 2trtog, 1 tr in each of next 9 sts, 2trtog, ss in top of beginning 2trtog (24 sts)

Row 13: 3 ch (counts as 1 tr), 1 tr in all sts all round, ss in top ch of beginning 3 ch (24 trs)

Row 14: 2 ch, FPtr in next st *BPtr in next st, FPtr in next st repeat from * to end, ss in top ch of beginning 2 ch (24 sts)

Row 15: repeat row 14

Row 16: repeat row 14, fasten off and weave in ends

Both mittens are the same, make two. 

Edit: There is now a matching chunky ribbed scarf pattern