This chunky ribbed scarf pattern has been designed specifically to go with my chunky crochet fingerless mittens pattern. The scarf is made using front and back post trebles using UK crochet terminology and therefore mirrors the mitten's top and bottom ribbing. It's a two row pattern repeat with the ribbing going the entire length of the scarf.
The front and back post stitches are worked as usual, there are links to how-to videos on the chunky crochet fingerless mittens pattern
You can adapt the pattern to make it wider or thinner by adjusting the stitch count. Using the number of stitches in the pattern, the scarf will be approximately 6 inches wide.
The pattern uses UK crochet terminology throughout.
MATERIALS
Chunky yarn, I used 7 x 50g balls of Rico Creative Melange
5.5mm hook
2 stitch markers
GAUGE
17 sts x 10 rows = 4 inches (measured over pattern)
ABBREVIATIONS
ch - chain
st - stitch
tr - treble
htr - half treble
FPtr - front post treble
BPtr - back post treble
Foundation row:
Chain multiples of 2 plus 3. I have chained 26+3=29, turn, skip 3 ch (counts as 1 tr), work tr (uk terms) into 4th ch from hook.
Place a stitch marker into ch at the top of the skipped chs, work 1 tr into every remaining ch (27 trs) turn
Chain multiples of 2 plus 3. I have chained 26+3=29, turn, skip 3 ch (counts as 1 tr), work tr (uk terms) into 4th ch from hook.
Place a stitch marker into ch at the top of the skipped chs, work 1 tr into every remaining ch (27 trs) turn
Row 1:
ch 2 (counts as 1 htr), 1 FPtr, place stitch marker into top of 2 ch at beginning,
* 1 BPtr, 1 FPtr, repeat from * (ending with a FPtr) up to (but not including) st with stitch marker, remove stitch marker and then work 1 htr into where the stitch marker was (13 FPtrs, 12 BPtrs and 2 htrs = 27 sts in all) turn
ch 2 (counts as 1 htr), 1 FPtr, place stitch marker into top of 2 ch at beginning,
* 1 BPtr, 1 FPtr, repeat from * (ending with a FPtr) up to (but not including) st with stitch marker, remove stitch marker and then work 1 htr into where the stitch marker was (13 FPtrs, 12 BPtrs and 2 htrs = 27 sts in all) turn
Row 2:
ch 2 (counts as 1 htr), 1BPtr, place stitch marker into top of 2 ch at beginning, * 1 FPtr, 1 BPtr, repeat from * (ending on a BPtr) up to (but not including) st with stitch marker, remove stitch marker and then work 1 htr into where the stitch marker was (12 FPtrs, 13 BPs, 2 htrs = 27 sts in all ) turn
ch 2 (counts as 1 htr), 1BPtr, place stitch marker into top of 2 ch at beginning, * 1 FPtr, 1 BPtr, repeat from * (ending on a BPtr) up to (but not including) st with stitch marker, remove stitch marker and then work 1 htr into where the stitch marker was (12 FPtrs, 13 BPs, 2 htrs = 27 sts in all ) turn
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until scarf is the length is required. If you want to make a fringe, be sure to save some yarn for that. The twisted fringe I am going to show you now particularly suits the ribbed scarf. It will use a little less than 20g so save about half a ball for it.
Finishing row: 3 ch (to count as 1 tr), work 1 tr into each stitch (27trs), do not break off yarn if you want to make the twisted fringe.
TWISTED FRINGE
Step One: Pull a loop up to measure 8 inches
Step Two: Rotate the crochet hook in a clockwise direction, twisting the loop 21 times, ss into the same st as the loop was pulled up from. NB Be sure not to pull the ss through too much or the loop will shorten.
Step Three: After the ss is worked, the loop may twist up into something that looks like the above photograph. Just pull it with your finger and thumb to smooth it out into a single twist.
Step Four: ss into the next st, this st can be worked a little tighter.
Repeat steps one to four until the last fringe loop has been worked, finishing with a ss into the last st, fasten off and weave in the end.
Repeat the fringe on the other end of the scarf by making a slip knot on your hook and pulling through one of the end stitches and then repeat steps one to four.
My fringe ended up being a little over 3 inches long using the method above but you could experiment with longer or shorter loops and a different number of twists to produce a longer or shorter fringe.
My scarf finished up being six foot, four inches long (excluding fringe) but you can make yours as long or as short as you like by adjusting yarn amounts and the number of rows worked.
Voila!Step Two: Rotate the crochet hook in a clockwise direction, twisting the loop 21 times, ss into the same st as the loop was pulled up from. NB Be sure not to pull the ss through too much or the loop will shorten.
Step Three: After the ss is worked, the loop may twist up into something that looks like the above photograph. Just pull it with your finger and thumb to smooth it out into a single twist.
Step Four: ss into the next st, this st can be worked a little tighter.
Repeat steps one to four until the last fringe loop has been worked, finishing with a ss into the last st, fasten off and weave in the end.
Repeat the fringe on the other end of the scarf by making a slip knot on your hook and pulling through one of the end stitches and then repeat steps one to four.
My fringe ended up being a little over 3 inches long using the method above but you could experiment with longer or shorter loops and a different number of twists to produce a longer or shorter fringe.
My scarf finished up being six foot, four inches long (excluding fringe) but you can make yours as long or as short as you like by adjusting yarn amounts and the number of rows worked.
Hi Sue I am sightly confused as to where I need to put my stitch marker on the first row xx
ReplyDeleteHi Amanda, the stitch marker goes in the last chain of your foundation chain. If it helps, put the stitch marker into the last chain before you do the tr. so instructions would read:
ReplyDeleteCh29, place stitch marker into 29th ch, work 1 tr in 4th ch from hook, work 1 tr in every remaining ch (27 trs)
I hope that helps! Best wishes, Sue