Long tall sally crocheted scarf pattern

ABBREVIATIONS (using UK terms)

st - stitch

ch - chain

tr - treble

htr - half treble

PSM - place stitch marker in previous ch (or st) just worked

dc - double crochet

sts - stitches

MATERIALS

2.5mm and 3.00mm crochet hook
I used Rico's Creative Melange one 50g ball was enough for my scarf (65 inches long by two and a half inches wide), if you make yours longer or shorter, you may need to adjust yarn quantities.
Darning needle
Two stitch markers

GAUGE

32 st x 20 rows worked in pattern equates to 4 inches though please note, the width of the finished scarf is only two and a half inches. It's a tall and skinny scarf (hence the name!)

HOW TO WORK THE SPECIAL STITCHES IN THIS PATTERN

dangle ending:

3 tr in 4th chain from hook, 4 tr in next ch, 4 htr in next ch, 1 htr in next ch

dtr3tog:

yo twice, insert hook in previously worked st, yo, pull through st (4 loops on hook), (yo, pull through 2 loops) twice (2 loops on hook), yo twice, skip 1 st, insert hook in next st, yo, pull through st (5 sts on hook), (yo, pull through 2 loops) twice (3 loops on hook), yo twice, skip 1 st, insert hook in next st, yo, pull through st (6 loops on hook), (yo, pull through 2 loops) twice, yo, pull through 4 loops on hook, ch 3

dtrxst:

yo twice, skip 1 st, insert hook in next st, yo, pull through st (4 loops on hook), yo, pull through two loops, yo, skip 1 st, insert hook in next st, yo pull through st (5 loops on hook), (yo, pull through 2 loops) 4 times (1 loop on hook), the stitch looks like an upside down lowercase “y”, ch 1, tr in intersection of the “y” to complete an “X” shape

FOUNDATION ROW

If, like me, your chains tend to be on the tight side, use a 2.5mm hook to ch multiples of 4 (I did 464), change to 2mm hook, ch a further 22, make a dangle ending (see above special stitches), dc in each of next 15ch, PSM, dc in every ch to end, 15 ch, turn

Row 1:

make a dangle ending, dc in each of next 8ch, htr in next st, tr in next st, dtr in next st, ch 1, dtr3tog, *ch 3, dtr3tog, repeat from * until 2 sts before you reach the stitch marker

ch 1, dtr in previous st (indicated above), tr in next st, htr in next st, ch 18, turn

Row 2:

make a dangle ending, dc in each of next 11ch, dc in each of next 3 sts, dc in 1ch sp,

dc in centre of dtr3tog, PSM, * 3 dc in 3ch sp, dc in centre of dtr3tog, repeat from all along length, ending with dc into the centre of the final dtr3tog, ch 20, turn

NB do not worry if your work curls a bit like this like mine, it will even out later

Row 3:

make a dangle ending, dc in each of next 13 ch, dc in every st up to and including stitch marker, remove stitch marker, ch 29, turn

Row 4:

make a dangle ending, dc in each of next 19 ch, htr in next ch, tr in next ch, dtr in next ch, ch 1, PSM, *dtrxst, ch 1, repeat from * all along length, ending with ch 1

NB Each dtrxst should span a 3ch space inbetween the dtr3togs worked on row 1

The final repeat should span the final 3ch space of row 1 (as above), skip 1 st, dtr in next st, tr in next st, htr in next st, ch 26, turn

Row 5:

make a dangle ending, dc in each of next 19 ch, dc in each of next 3sts, dc in 1ch space, PSM, * dc in next st, dc in 1 ch sp, repeat from * all along length up to and including marker, remove marker, ch 23

Row 6:

make a dangle ending, dc in each of next 16 ch, dc in every stitch all along length until stitch just before marker, remove marker, ss into next stitch, fasten off. First half of Long Tall Sally scarf complete.

FOUNDATION FOR SECOND HALF

Turn scarf upside-down. With the end with three dangles to your right, identify the third ch from the foundation row (see below). Reattach yarn there and then ch 22, turn

Row 7:

make a dangle ending, dc in each of next 15 ch, dc in same ch as yarn reattached, dc in each of next 4 st, PSM, dc in every ch all along length until stitch indicated below

ch 18, turn

Row 8:

make a dangle ending,  dc in each of next 8 ch, htr in next ch, tr in next ch, dtr in next ch, dtr3tog, *3 ch, dtr3tog, repeat from * working the final leg of the dtr3tog where stitch marker is, remove stitch marker, ch 1, dtr in same st, tr in next st, htr in next st, ch 13, turn

Row 9:

make a dangle ending, dc in each of next 6 ch, dc in each of next 3 sts, PSM, dc in 1 ch sp, dc in centre of dtr3tog, *3 dc in 3 ch sp, dc in centre of dtr3tog, repeat from * ending with final dtr3tog, dc in each of next 2 sts, ch 20, turn

Row 10:

make a dangle ending, dc in each of next 13 ch, dc in next 3 sts, PSM, dc in every st all along the length up to and including stitch where stitch marker is, remove stitch marker, ch 21, turn

Row 11:

make a dangle ending, dc in each of next 11ch, PSM, dc in each of next 2 ch, 1 htr in next ch, 1 tr in next ch, 1 dtr in next st, *ch 1, dtr in next st, repeat from * all along length, ending in dtr in st where stitch marker is, remove stitch marker, tr in next st, htr in next st, ch 24, turn

Row 12:

make a dangle ending, dc in each of next 17ch, dc in next st, PSM, dc in each of next 3 st, *dc in 1 ch sp, dc in next st, repeat from * all along until you have no more ch sps, dc in each remaining st up to and including where stitch marker is, remove stitch marker, ch 17, turn

Row 13:

make a dangle ending, dc in each of next 10ch, dc in every stitch all along length up to and including stitch marker, remove stitch marker, ss in next st, fasten off.

FINISHING

Blocking does not make much difference to this scarf's finished appearance but do feel free to block if you have any curling issues as it will straighten this out.

Close up of the dangle endings.