Lacy infinity scarf - free crochet pattern

This lacy infinity scarf I made is a great project for using up small leftover balls of 4 ply yarn, It can be doubled and worn as a cowl

The yarn I used for the Aqua Blue section was hand-dyed and supplied by LamingtonLass on Etsy in her Mermaid colourway, the green was from my stash left over from a pair of socks and I cannot recall where I got it unfortunately but any 4 ply or sock weight yarn will work.

If you'd like to make one of these yourself, here's how I did it

MATERIALS

• 25g (approx 106 yard) each of two colours of 4 ply yarn called Colour A and Colour B
• 3mm hook
• Tapestry needle to weave in ends
• Blocking pins

ABBREVIATIONS (all in UK crochet terminology)

• ch - chain
• ss - slip stitch
• dc - double crochet
• tr - treble crochet
• st - stitch
• dtr - double treble
• dtrSpan - 2 dtr spanning two fans, see ** below for a step by step explanation of how to work this stitch
• rs - right side

GAUGE

3 pattern repeats is equivalent to four inches after blocking but gauge is not critical, you can adjust length as indicated in the pattern

INSTRUCTIONS

Foundation: ch 217,  ss into the beginning chain (indicated in photograph above) to make a big circle. Try it on to make sure you can put it on and then easily loop in around your head again to double it up. If you cannot, increase the length of the chain by multiples of 8 before ss.

Round 1:

Ch 3, then work 2 tr into the same stitch (indicated in photograph above).

*(ch 2, skip 3 ch, 1 dc into next ch, ch 2, skip 3 chain, 5 tr into next st) repeat from * until 7 unworked chs remain (photograph above indicates what the work looks like when 4 repeats have been completed

Above photograph shows what work looks like with 7 unworked chs remain.

2 ch, skip 3 ch, dc into next ch, 2ch, 2 tr into same first st at the beginning of the round (indicated by the tapestry needle above) ss into top of initial ch 3 (indicated by the tapestry needle below)

Round 2:

Ch 5 (to count as 1dtr and 1ch), dtr into next st (indicated above), ch1

Now we're going to work 2 dtrs joined together at the top spanning the end of the first fan and the beginning of the next fan (abbreviated to dtrSpan). Don't worry, it's easier than it sounds! Here's how you do it.

**yrh twice, insert hook into next st (indicated above), pull up loop (4 loops on hook), (yrh, pull through two loops) twice (2 loops on hook) yrh twice, skip (2ch, 1dc 2ch), insert hook into the next st (indicated below)

yrh twice pull loop through st (5 loops on hook) (yrh, pull through two loops) twice yrh pull through the remaining 3 loops (you have just completed the dtrSpan stitch

The photograph above shows what your own should look like at this stage.

(1ch, 1 dtr in next st) 3 times, 1 ch. Repeat from **, the photograph above shows what your work will look like once you have completed several fans. Continue repeating until you get to the stage below where there is one last dtrSpan to complete.

On the last dtrSpan, you will work into the top of a tr you made at the start of the previous round as indicated in the photograph above with a tapestry needle.

Ch 1, dtr in next st, ch 1  and then ss into the 4th chain of the 5 ch you made at the start of this round. (Photograph above shows after the ss has been made).

Round 3:
*(5 ch, skip 1 ch, dc in next st) repeat from * all the way round until you get back to the start of the round. Instead of a dc into the base of the first loop, make a ss into the place indicated by the tapestry needle below and then fasten off leaving an end to weave in later.

One half of the Colour A work has been completed. Turn your work upside down, make a loop in the Colour A yarn and then with rs of work facing, pull the loop through any one of the chain spaces at the base of the fans (one of these is indicated in the photograph below with a tapestry needle).

Follow the pattern reworking round 1 beginning with 3 ch. Continue on to work round 2 and 3, fasten off Colour A.

The photograph above indicates what your work will look like when you've done that  it looks a bit wrinkly at this stage but don't worry, blocking will take care of that when we've finished the other half of the scarf.

Using Colour B, start another separate piece of lacework, work rounds 1, 2 and 3. Turn the work upside down as before but only work rounds 1 and 2 this time; we're going to use round 3 to join the two pieces of work together. With right side facing, offer up the Colour B piece of work to Colour A, it should look like the photograph above.

(*Ch 2 then insert hook into corresponding 5ch sp as indicated above with yarn to the right, yrh, pull the loop through the 5ch sp and the loop on the hook, ch 2, skip ch, dc into top of dtr.)

Repeat from * all the way round joining the two pieces together, the photograph above shows what your work will look like after several joins have been worked. To finish the round off, instead of a dc, work a ss into the final st.

Weave in ends using the tapestry needle but don't finally cut off the last inch or two until after blocking.

Thoroughly wet the scarf using warm water and then squeeze (not wring) excess water out. Fold the scarf in half lengthwise onto a towel laid over spare pieces of carpeting or a blocking board. Using blocking pins, pick up the top and bottom loops of the scarf on each side and gently stretching pin the scarf out. The photograph above shows the amount of stretching that will typically be required.

The above picture shows the scarf completely pinned out. When the item is completely dry, remove blocking pins and finish trimming loose ends. You may find where the scarf was folded when damp, there is a crease at both ends; these can be relaxed by rubbing inbetween warm fingers.

You can see what a difference blocking makes!

Now just put your scarf on and wear! Here's what it looks like doubled:

Printable PDF version of pattern and phototutorial