Here is my latest free crochet pattern, to make a macrame inspired trailing plant hanger/holder. Instructions are written out row by row but for chart readers, two charts are provided towards the end of this blog posting.
It is quite difficult to print patterns out from my blog. The blog version will always be free and available to consult here but for those who want a print-ready version, a PDF may be purchased for a modest sum from my Etsy shop.
Pattern is written in UK crochet terms throughout.
SIZE
To fit a pot with a diameter of 12.5-15cm (5-6 inches) and similar height
Overall length measures approximately 59cm (23.5 inches) from tip of hanging loop to the bottom of the pot when displaying a 12.5cm (5 inches) potted plant
ABBREVIATIONS
- rs- right side
- ch(s) - chain(s)
- rs - right side
- ch(s) – chain(s)
- sp - space
- st - stitch
- ss - slip stitch
- dc - double crochet
- tr(s) - treble crochet(s)
- rep - repeat
- beg - beginning
- rem – remaining
GAUGE
21 sts and 10 rows, worked in tr = four inches square NB: if your gauge square is larger, you may find you will need a second ball of yarn
MATERIALS
- 1 x 50g ball of Scheepjes Catona or equivalent 4-ply weight cotton/cotton blend*
- Size 4mm hook (or whatever size is required to achieve gauge)
- Darning needle to weave in ends
*Other suggested yarns: Scheepjes Linen Soft, Drops Safran, Rowan Summerlite
INSTRUCTIONS
If you are familiar with reading charts, Chart 1 (at the end of this document) covers rows 1-9.
Round 1 (rs)
Make a slip knot and place on hook, ch 8, ss into first ch to form a ring, do not turn on this or subsequent rows, the rs faces you throughout the project
Round 2
ch 1 (does not count as a st), 20 dc into ring, ss into first dc
Round 3
ch 6 (counts as 1 tr, 3 ch), *skip 1 st, tr in next st, ch 3, rep from * 8 times, skip 1 st, ss into 3rd ch of beg chs
Round 4
ch 3 (counts as a tr), 3 trs into base of same ch, *skip 3 ch sp, dc in next st, skip 3 ch, (4 tr, 3 ch, 4 tr) in next st, repeat from * 3 times, skip 3 ch, dc in next st, skip 3 ch, 4 trs into same st as initial trs, 3 ch, ss into top of beg 3 ch
NB At the end of Round 4, the chs you need to ss into the top of may be partially hidden due to the number of trs worked into the same st. The darning needle in the photograph shows the correct place to work the ss.
Round 5
ch 4 (counts as 1 tr, 1 ch), (skip 1 st, tr in next st, ch 1) 4 times, *(tr, 3ch, tr) in 3 ch sp, ch 1, tr in next st, ch 1, (skip 1 st, tr in next st, ch 1) 4 times, rep from * 3 times, (tr, 3 ch, tr) in 3 ch sp, ch 1, ss into 3rd ch of beg 4 chs
Round 6
NB – in Round 6, and all subsequent rounds, where items are in brackets after the word “skip”, this means there is more than one item to skip, ie, all the stitches listed between the brackets should be skipped.
The darning needle in the photograph above shows where to place the next tr after skipping for Round 6.
ch 3 (to count as tr), *ch 5, skip (1 ch sp, tr, 1 ch sp, tr, 1 ch sp, tr, 1 ch sp), tr in next st, tr in 1 ch sp, tr in next st (2 tr, ch 3, 2 tr) in 3 ch sp, tr in next st, tr in 1 ch sp, tr in next st, repeat from * 3 more times, 5 ch, skip (1ch, tr, 1 ch sp, tr, 1 ch sp, tr, 1 ch sp), tr in next st, tr in ch sp, tr in next st, (2 tr, ch 3, 2 tr) in 3 ch sp, tr in next st, tr in 1 ch sp, ss into 3rd ch of beg chs
Round 7
ss into each of next 3 ch, ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same ch *ch 3, skip (2 ch, 2 sts) tr in next st, ch 1, skip 1 st, tr in next st, ch 1, (tr, ch 3, tr) in 3 ch sp, ch 1, tr in next st, ch 1, skip 1 st, tr in next st, ch 3, dc into 5 ch sp, rep from * 4 times. NB on final repeat, end with ss into beg dc (instead of dc in 5 ch sp)
Round 8
ch 1, dc in same st, *dc in 3 ch sp, ch 4, skip (rest of 3 ch sp, 1 tr, 1 ch sp), tr in next st, tr in ch sp, tr in next st, (2tr, ch 3, 2 tr) in 3 ch sp, tr in next st, tr in ch sp, tr in next st, 4 ch, skip (1 ch sp, tr), dc in 3 ch sp, dc in next st, repeat from * 4 times. NB on final repeat, end with ss into beg dc (instead of dc in next st)
Round 9
ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc in same st, *5 ch, skip (dc, 4 ch sp, 2 sts) tr in next st, ch 1, skip 1 st, tr in next st, ch 1, (tr, 3 ch, tr) in 3 ch sp, ch 1, tr in next st, ch 1, skip 1 st, tr in next st, 5 ch, skip (2sts, 4 ch, 1 dc), dc in next st, repeat from * 4 times. NB on final repeat, end with ss into beg dc (instead of dc in next st)
If you are familiar with reading charts, Chart 2 (at the end of this document) covers rows 10-13 with row 9 included for clarity to indicate to the user where one chart finishes and the other starts.
Round 10
NB – in Round 10, as with some previous rounds, there are quite a few stitches to skip. The photograph above shows the correct place to continue.
ss into each of next 5 ch, ss into next st, ss into 1 ch sp, ss into next st, ch 3 (to count as tr), tr in 1 ch sp, tr in next st, (2 tr, 3 ch, 2 tr) in 3 ch sp, tr in next st, tr in 1 ch sp, tr in next st * 9 ch, skip (ch 1 sp, tr, 5 ch, dc, 5 ch, tr, ch 1 sp) tr in next st, tr in 1 ch sp, tr in next st, (2 tr, 3 ch, 2 tr) in 3 ch sp, tr in next st, tr in 1 ch sp, tr in next sp, rep from * 3 times, skip (1 ch sp, tr, 5 ch sp, dc, 5 ch sp, tr, 1 ch sp), ch 9, ss in top of beg 3 ch
Round 11
ss into each of next 2 st, ch 4 (to count as tr and ch 1), skip 1 st, tr in next st, ch 1 (tr, ch 3, tr) in 3 ch sp, ch 1, tr in next st, ch 1, skip 1 st *ch 4, dc in 9 ch sp, ch 4, skip (rest of 9 ch sp, 2 sts) tr in next st, ch 1, skip 1 st, tr in next st, ch 1 (tr, ch 3, tr) in 3 ch sp, (ch 1, tr in next st) twice, rep from * 3 times, ch 4, dc in 9 ch sp, 4 ch, skip (rest of ch 9 sp, 2 sts), ss in 3rd of beg 4 ch
Round 12
ss in 1 ch sp, ss in next st, ch 3 (to count as tr), tr in 1 ch sp, tr in next st, *(2 tr, ch 2, 2 tr) in 3 ch sp, tr in next st, tr in 1 ch sp, tr in next st, ch 4, skip (1 ch sp, 1 st), dc in 4 ch sp, dc in next st, dc in 4 ch sp, ch 4, skip (rest of 4 ch, tr, 1 ch sp), tr in next st, tr in 1 ch sp, tr in next st, repeat from * 3 times, (2 tr, ch 2, 2 tr) in 3 ch sp, tr in next st, tr in 1 ch sp, tr in next st, ch 4, skip (1 ch, 1 tr), dc in 4 ch sp, dc in next st, dc in 4 ch sp, ch 4, skip (rest of 4 ch sp, tr, 1 ch sp), ss into 3rd of beg 3 ch
Round 13
ch 1 (does not count as st), dc in same st, *dc in next st, ch 3, ss into dc just worked to form a picot, dc in each of next 3 sts, ch 75, ss in 5th ch from hook, dc in next ch, htr in next ch, 2 htr in each of rem 68 ch, skip 2 ch sp, dc in each of next 3 sts, ch 3, ss into dc just worked to form a picot, dc in each of next 2 sts, 4 dc in 4 ch sp, dc in next 2 sts, ch 3, ss into dc just worked to form a picot, dc in next st, 4 dc in 4 ch sp, dc in next st, repeat from * 4 times. NB on final repeat, end with ss into dc at beg of round (instead of dc in next st). Leaving a tail long enough to weave in, cut yarn, draw through loop on hook to fasten off.
HANGING LOOP
Turn the hanger upside down and check the twists on the hanging strings are spiralling all in the same direction (I had mine going clockwise). Give it a bit of a shake, check each string has roughly the same number of twists on them. Carefully lay the hanger down with the strings separated from each other.
One at a time, insert your crochet hook through the loops at the top of the hanging strings, in the same order they go around the hanger.
Make a loose slip knot in your yarn, place it on the end of your hook and draw it through all five loops on the hanging strings. Pull the yarn a little tighter and then ch 1 (this is referred to hereafter as the “initial ch”).
ch 10, ss into the initial ch, pulling the yarn tight again.
Turn, ch 1 (does not count as a st), 12 dcs into 10 ch ring, ss into initial ch. Leaving a tail long enough to weave in, cut yarn, draw through loop on hook. When weaving in the end on the hanging loop, wrap the yarn around the initial chain a few times to reinforce it.
Weave in ends.
